Ingredients
- 16gr of carrageenan
- 350ml water
- 3ml gliceryn
- (optional) plants of your choice
Tools
- Pot
- Heating Plate / Stove
- Spoon/Chopsticks
- (optional) mixer
- casting plate (for this recipe the size is 25*30 cm)
step1: boil
Place the carrageenan, water and glycerin in the pot, and boil until the carrageenan completely dissolves in the mixture.
A temperature of around 80°C would be ideal.
step2: add plants (optional)
Before adding the petals or leaves, make sure to shred them into smaller pieces with a mixer.
Add pieces of pedals or leaves into the mixture, and stir until they are well-mixed.
step3: casting
Once the mixture is made, it is time to cast it into bio-leather sheet. Pour the mixture very slowly and carefully into the mold.
If you are using a plastic mold, the heat of the mixture might deform the mold a bit, which might lead to uneven distribution of the liquid.
It is also possible that due to its weight, the plant pieces will cluster in a certain area.
step 4: air drying
After casting the sheet, it is time to air dry the material. It usually takes 2-3 days for it to dry fully. (But also, Shanghai weather is very humid in May/ June, so it might take longer)
step 5: laser cutting and styling
After the sheet is made, it is time to arrange the bio-leather.
Before laser cutting, I also heat-pressed the bio-leather sheet to make it flatter (although it didn’t make a significant difference. I chose to laser cut as a way to arrange the bio-leather. Eventually, I made a skirt out of this bio-leather.
Experimenting Bio-leather
by Yelena Ye
This recipe/ bio-leather sheet was the result of several experiments I made during the summer of 2024, when I was working on the second iteration of my interactive fashion project.
The glycerin was added to minimize the shrinking of the sheet, I suppose. And the reason why I added petals and leaves to the mixture was that, it was right after the Qingming Festival and there were so much almost-dried wormwood (艾草) left in my place. Out of curiosity, I shredded the leaves into pieces with a small mixer, and it turned out well. Later, because my mom kept flowers, I brought her unwanted flowers to the lab and worked with the flower petals too. It was a fun experiment as the flower petals and leaves added unexpected color to the bio-leather.
Adding these materials into the mixture did result in the final bio-leather to shrink significantly sometimes, or to have uneven thickness. I tried with heat-pressing the sheet in-between the baking paper. The result wasn’t unsatisfactory, but heat-pressing didn’t help with flattening the sheet much. (One thing to keep in mind is that DO NOT heat press when the sheet isn’t completely dried. I think some part of the sheet got stuck on the baking paper once!)
Laser cutting
Since we didn’t have a huge space for casting the bio-leather, nor did we have a container large enough, I made sheets and sheets of bio-leather, and was trying to find ways to connect them. (I wasn’t good at using the sewing machine so that option didn’t work out for me.) When researching online, I found a hexagon pattern adopted by interior design that seemed very feasible. At first I experimented with paper, and I found out hexagon is the most secured structure. (The pattern on the right was too fragile, please do not refer to that one. The one on the left worked better)

In order to laser cut, remember to tape the sheet onto the machine, and put the material setting as “paper”. Afterwards, all you need to do is to interlock the patterns very carefully with each other! 🙂
Further development
I didn’t measure the amount of plants added to the mixture, nor haven’t I experimented with completely dried plants. Maybe the size of the plant pieces matters too. Having these taken into consideration will definitely yield to more ideal bio-leather production.
Additionally, I am also curious about the feasibility of sewing the bio-leather together. Maybe the bio-leather is too brittle, thus having holes on it isn’t an ideal way of connection. But it is also possible that the bio-leather has the flexibility to be connected in such a way?






